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Yes you are right, this image is AI. If you would ever like to try and divide dog owners on a topic, there is no quicker way than to bring up the dog park. “Bringing your dog to the dog park means they will contract viruses” “My dog kept getting attacked” “My dog goes everyday and she loves it” “I’m very worried my dog will get into fights” “We go weekly and my dog always has a great time, but people keep telling me not to go” As a trainer who has worked in rescue introducing hundreds of dogs to each other, given group obedience classes and trained in sports, I can tell you I have heard it all and seen it all. So let’s get into: Disclaimer: If you are reading this article because your dog keeps getting into fight at the dog park, STOP GOING. It is NORMAL for a dog not to want to play with other dogs. There is no trainer that exists (unless they are scamming you) that can turn your selective dog into a dog that can safely and happily go to the dog park every day. This does not mean your dog cannot learn to make friends, depending on the dog and their behaviour. But again, it is completely normal for a dog to stop being able to socialize at the dog park.  Ok back to the rest of the article.  Risks Starting with the obvious, fights can and do happen. What’s nice about most dog fights is that they don’t last long and most of the interaction is what we in the training world refer to as a “smoke show”. These scuffles happen usually in the first 30 seconds to a minute of dogs meeting each other and dogs can be relatively easily separated (more on separating dog fights below). Dog’s mostly do not want to be offensively aggressive (to be the first to instigate an aggressive interaction). With people, we have other ways for a fight to end (the police). Dogs however, do not know about our justice system. Mostly the approach to violence in the animal kingdom is: if you start something, you’ll have to be prepared to finish it. This is where serious injuries come in. Luckily these do not make up the majority of interactions at the dog park.  Please know that if you go to a park where there are dogs off leash, a fight is always possible. The first and more important rule of the dog park is, the only thing you have control over is yourself. You do not have control over the other off leash dogs and you certainly do not want to put your hands anywhere near an unknown (or even known dog’s) mouth when they are in a fight (or even a scuffle!). If you go to a dog park regularly, you need to safely know how to break up a dog fight (link below). If this sounds scary to you, please have your dog’s social needs met with other people you know in a setting where the interactions can be more controlled (a private backyard).  Do fights happen? Yes. Have I been to dog parks at varying intervals in my life despite this? Yes. Do I still recommend that people use dog parks? Yes, depending on their dog and how comfortable they are with the risks. Do I personally use dog parks? No, because the breeds of the dogs that I personally have are not suitable for dog park play (more on that later).  Of course it is also important to be away of health risks. Please ensure your dog is vaccinated (or if you check blood antibodies, that they are sufficiently protected). Of the biggest medical risks, the most frequent are intestinal parasites and respiratory infection. A vaccine for kennel cough is a must, but be aware that your dog can contract it even when vaccinated (there are many strains). Kennel cough is like a cold for dogs, but can be more severe or dangerous depending on the age (very young or rather old) and health of your dog. Please have your dog regularly checked for parasites and inform yourself on what the symptoms of parasitic infection look like.  Now that we have looked at the risks, what can you do about them? What precautions can you then take to ensure your safety? What is socialization and what is sociability?  So you want to go to the dog park to socialize your dog? The socialization phase in a dog’s life happens after their eyes and ears open and lasts until adolescence and fear periods begin (anywhere from 12 to 16-17 weeks). This is the time it is most important to let your puppy play with other puppies in a safe and controlled environment. After this period, play is much less important, depending on your personal goals with your dog.  As your dog matures, they go into phases called fear periods where they are much more sensitive. These phases are important, as fear keeps us safe, but if your dog is in this phase, they may take a bad interaction to heart more than if they were not in this fearful period. It is important to know if your dog seems more afraid than usual: barking at things more, more wary of strangers, maybe having a hard time with certain manipulations, because during this phase is it recommended to simply stay away from stressful places, like the dog park.  What is sociability? What breeds are prosocial with their conspecifics? (which dogs are more likely to get along with other dogs?) Sociability is essentially how social your dog is. I’m certain you can think of examples of people you know that love a party and to hang out in a group. Then there are others (looking at your engineers!) that need their alone time more. Whether you love it or not, going into a group of people you do not know, … Read moreThe Dog Park: Always, Sometimes or Never? A definitive guide

Would you like your vet visit to be pleasant and easy?  Is your dog uncomfortable or does he have white coat syndrome? (yes this term is also used for dogs!) If so, this article is for you! Below we discuss what to practice to have your dog enjoy the clinic, be able to be calm both waiting for their appointment and during as well as getting them ready for possibly uncomfortable veterinary contentions.  Before your appointment: Make frequent visits to the vet just to get treats. Have you ever tried to walk by your local pet store without your dog trying to drag you inside? Food is a great way to make positive connections for your dog. It turns the vet into a happy place and we promise the receptionists and techs love to see you come in!  If your dog has had other experiences at the vet that have been negative, your vet staff may ask you to muzzle your dog. If this is the case, it’s important to teach this behaviour ahead of time. This helps relieve possible added stress to your dog (and keeps everyone at the clinic safe). Depending on your dog’s level of stress, be aware that there is medication which can help your dog to be calm. Please speak with your clinic prior to your exam if you think your dog could benefit from this.  A note on muzzles: Muzzles get bad press. We think only “aggressive” dogs wear them, but that’s not the case. Dogs who wear muzzles in public most often do so because they’re scared. People use the muzzle as a safety measure alongside other training and tools (like a leash!). The muzzle is there when training and other tools fail. Often, my customers whose dogs wear muzzles in public spaces think that if people were more respectful, their dog wouldn’t need to wear a muzzle, and they’re right. The muzzle is there in case someone reaches down and strokes the dog without asking while the owner’s head is turned (please never do this), or in case an off-leash dog enters directly into their dog’s space. In fact, dogs wear muzzles to protect people and other dogs, but mainly to protect themselves from people who place them in inappropriate situations. There are a LOT of other reasons why dogs wear muzzles: they eat poop (remember, dogs are coprophagous), they pick up anything outside and swallow it, they’re afraid of other dogs, in order to ride the Montreal metro, they’re afraid of the vet, they’re afraid of the groomer etc. The truth is that in general, animals and restraints don’t mix. We need to teach them (slowly) that the procedures that need to be carried out and that may require muzzling won’t kill them. I can tell you that I’ve seen very few dogs who haven’t reacted negatively initially to having a muzzle put on their face. Most of my customers come to me when their dog is already hiding behind the sofa at the sight of the muzzle. Consider training this before your dog has a negative association.  Here’s how: https://pourlamourdeschiens.com/en/2023/10/17/muzzle-training-why-and-how/ (written steps) Video Part 1 https://www.facebook.com/reel/253557107266066 Video Part 2 https://www.facebook.com/reel/226194940214675 For before and during your appointment: Many dogs have to learn to be calm or self regulate in different contexts. We teach this by doing what is called “paying for calm”. This is also very useful for those evenings (certainly those of your with adolescent dogs) we want to get our dog used to being calm on the floor while we watch TV:  This takes practice, patience and observation. Do not start out your first session thinking you will get 30 minutes training out of your dog. Start with 3 seconds, then 5, 10, 15 etc. then a minute and half, then two, then three and continue from there. Gradually increase the time you put between rewards as well as the time of the training session.   Please remember, food is used to tell the dog: “yes you have done something good, thank you” but is it also used to change an emotion. Food helps a dog calm down and focus on you when maybe they would ordinarily be focused on something else.  Try using a more boring treat for this exercise when you are in an environment with a low level of distraction (your living room when it is quiet). The idea is not to use something that will increase the dog’s level of excitement. However, if you start to increase distraction and your distance from your dog, (like if you take the exercise outside or have guests over) maybe you will need to use something more interesting.  Just Before your appointment Burn their energy by tiring them physically and mentally. Canine enrichment (mental stimulation) is a term used to describe activities that help stimulate and enrich the mental life of your dog. It can involve providing interactive meals, good things to chew or of course training! Don’t forget to practice some basic obedience, new or old tricks, use your dog’s nose to play some scent games or practice any sport you love to do together. Any and all of these activities will make it easier for your dog to be calm during the visit.  Also please don’t forget, even though your vet has treats at their office, you know your best: BRING DELICIOUS TREATS WITH YOU! I personally bring roasted chicken, cheese (low fat!), dried liver and sometimes steak. Why? Because my dog is nervous and having delicious food will help keep them interested in me so my vet can quickly and safely give my dog his injections. Be proactive and come prepared so your dog can have a less stressful (and maybe fun!) experience. Practicing vet contentions: Dogs speak but only to those who listen.  Learning canine body language can help prevent a serious incident at the vet. Your dog tells you when they don’t appreciate something. Learn to know what your dog is trying to tell … Read moreYes your dog can be happy at the vet! Vet Contentions and Calm

Let’s face reality, your dog will need to be groomed all of their life which includes the dreaded nail trimming (cue scary music and scenes of blood and screaming, both you and the dog).  It’s vital and necessary  to teach your dog how to tolerate (or even accept and enjoy!) this behaviour as soon as possible to facilitate your job and that of the groomer or Animal Health Technicians.  Training this behaviour will greatly reduce your dog’s stress (and yours!).  According to Alexandra Yaksich, Animal Health Technician (AHT) at Baker Animal Hospital and pioneer of the movement to ban declawing in cats, devocalization, ear cropping, and tail amputations; had this to say about keeping your dog’s nails short “If the nail is too long and touching the ground, it puts pressure on the finger which alters the normal weight distribution thereby affecting the posture of the animal. This creates a cascade that affects the biomechanics of movement and can cause pain”. Just imagine you yourself trying to walk with your toenails scraping the ground. It might have an effect on the way you walk, wouldn’t it? See the photo below and as shocking as it is, it proves that nail trimming should be a part of your weekly or bi-weekly routine. The quick is the pink vein that grows within the nail (see photo above).  It is sometimes difficult to see especially with black nails but practice makes perfect.  If you do not feel comfortable trying to trim nails, there are plenty of places that do it for you.  However, your job still isn’t done.  The majority of dogs do not like their nails trimmed and/or don’t like their paws touched, therefore, they have to be trained at a young age if possible in order to tolerate this process.  If you don’t keep up with the grooming, the quick keeps growing. Myth Buster:  The quick can recede over time, so if your dog’s nails are unruly, you can start trimming them slowly over a period of time until the quick is in its normal position. Alexandra comments about the quick: “If the nail is clear you’ll see a pink line, that is where the vein is. The vein tapers at the end from the moment the pink part ends.  If the nail is black, it is more difficult to see, therefore look from the bottom of the nail.  With nail clippers go little by little until you see the white or black circular shape.  Stop then!” Please see photo below for reference.  *Taken from https://weliveinaflat.com/blog/how-to-cut-dogs-black-nails/ *Taken from https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P1ikEbp8EZM/WlYrRhBsa7I/AAAAAAAACmk/H5pNTykjSrw8d4IKzoKa4dPLQxpOy7fPgCEwYBhgL/s1600/how-often-to-clip-dog-nails.jpg DON’T PANIC!  Yes, it is painful to cut the quick and it may set you back on your training, but it’s not the end of the world.  It will bleed a lot but no cause for immediate concern.  Simply dab some Kwik Stop (which you can order online or ask your vet to order for you) or some corn starch on the nail, this should stop the bleeding within two minutes.  Ok, so how do you train your dog to be comfortable with grooming their nails?  It’s baby steps, always baby steps.   Pro tip #1: Always start your next desensitization session before where you last left off. Your dog needs a warm-up to get back into the groove.  Pro tip #2: Get your dog to lay comfortably on their side in a long down position with their cheek touching the ground. This helps your dog relax and makes it easy for you to have access to their nails. However you can also have your dog standing up and lift their paw from behind, so you can see the bottom of all their nails.  Once the above mentioned portion is done, start introducing the instrument of your choice. If you can get away with continually feeding your dog brie cheese or doritos while another person is trimming, then all the better. These steps are for people whose dogs are sensitive to stress and have problems with manipulation. There is nothing wrong with your dog not totally loving this process but it is always nicer if your dog is calm during the process for you and for them. Remember your practice also helps the professionals who do it, if you choose to go that way.  Signs you need the help of a professional: Your dog panics and flails everywhere, so much so you cannot hold their paws at all. They bare their teeth, snarl, snap (a snap is when you hear their teeth close in the air), make contact with your skin with their teeth and add pressure, bite you to blood. Please also consult your veterinarian if this is the case, they are also there to help  you! Which tool to use? There are two tools we suggest, the nail trimmer or the dremel.  You choose the one you feel comfortable with.  The dremel is nice because it removes layer by layer and it is more difficult to cut the quick, however, the noise may be scary for your dog but it’s just a matter of getting your dog used to the feeling and the noise (it’s not very loud if you get a good one).  The nail trimmers are the standard scissors used by vets and groomers.  See the links attached for the ones we recommend. www.amazon.ca/Millers-Forge-Stainless-Steel-Clipper/dp/B0002ARUKQ/ref=sr_1_10?crid=HGICT95TT8OY&keywords=dog+nail+clippers&qid=1680519825&sprefix=dog+nai%2Caps%2C1971&sr=8-10\ www.amazon.ca/Trimmers-Clippers-Electric-Rechargeable-Grooming/dp/B09XLGLX5G/ref=sr_1_5?crid=7R2WZDJR36HX&keywords=dog+dremel+with+different+grinders&qid=1680520579&s=pet-supplies&sprefix=dog+dremel+with+different+grinders%2Cpets%2C139&sr=1-5 Good luck and hopefully this guide helps take some of the stress out of the process for you. Please feel free to check our facebook and instagram for videos on how to get your dog to lay on their side, paw desensitization and how to introduce and use nail trimming tools.  Nail Trimming Part 1: https://www.facebook.com/reel/961520678447078  Nail Trimming Part 2: https://www.facebook.com/reel/660483442807290 Carolyne Baker, TA Trainer, For the Love of Dogs/Pour l’Amour des Chiens

It’s a good idea to train things you don’t know that you need, before you may need them. Mia being stylish waiting to go into the metro. Muzzles get a bad rap. We think only scary, aggressive dogs wear them when this just isn’t true. Dogs that wear a muzzle in public, do so most often because they’re scared. People use this with other training as a safety measure along with other training and tools (like a leash!). The muzzle is there in case training and other tools fail. Often my clients with dogs who wear muzzles in public spaces feel that if people in general were more respectful,  their dog wouldn’t have to wear a muzzle at all, and they’re right. The muzzle is there in case someone lowers a hand and strokes their dog without asking while the owner’s head is turned (please never do this); or in case an off leash dog comes directly into their dog’s space. So in fact dogs wear muzzles to protect people and other dogs, but mostly to protect themselves from people who put them in inappropriate situations. There are MANY other reasons dogs wear muzzles: they eat poop (remember, dogs are coprophagous, yum!) , they pick up anything and everything outside with their mouth and will swallow it,  they’re scared of other dogs, in order to go into the Montreal metro, they’re scared at the vet, they’re scared at the groomer. By and large, we use them often when we have to physically handle a dog. Basically animals and constraint don’t really go together. We need to teach them (slowly) that the procedure that needs to be done that requires the muzzle, will not actually kill them. It’s also a really very good idea to teach them how to wear the muzzle, so that this does not add to their stress. I will tell you, I have seen precious few dogs who didn’t react negatively to having a muzzle simply put on their face. The majority of my clients get to me when their dog is already hiding behind the couch at the sight of their muzzle. If you want to help lower your dog’s level of stress, at an already very stressful situation for them, or if you want to reduce your carbon footprint and bring Fluffy along for a metro ride; here’s how to make it positive, fun and delicious for your dog: Pro tip: Take small steps   Step 1: Positive association    Step 2: Have your dog take treats with their face inside the muzzle   *VERY IMPORTANT: Be sure to keep the muzzle away from your dog’s face, don’t let them pull their face out of the muzzle themselves. Otherwise, the dog will get into the habit of putting their face in and pulling it out again.   Step 3: Increasing the time your dog’s head is inside so we can play with the straps (duration).  What you are looking for: That hey can eat each treat without taking their head out of the muzzle   Step 4: The Straps  What you are looking for: They can eat for 5 seconds while you play with the straps.   Step 4.5: More duration with your dog’s face inside the muzzle while you play with the straps.   What you are looking for: That they can eat only 3-5 treats for a full 10 seconds while one of you is feeding and the other plays/holds the straps on their head (light pressure).   Step 5:  What you are looking for: They can eat for 5 seconds with the straps attached.   Step 6: With the straps attached, we ask for commands  What you are looking for: That your dog can do what you ask, maybe a little in slow motion, but they are quite capable.   Step 7:  What you are looking for: they can walk around and easily give you the commands you ask for.   Step 7.5: Add more steps! Walk around the house! Ask for more behaviours!    Step 8: Start going outside for short periods of time, put the muzzle on, walk around and then take it off. Slowly increase the time the muzzle is on their face.   There are variations of this training where you teach the dog a “stay” in many positions, and then you get them to “stay” with their face inside the muzzle. Remember, the steps may be simple, but it’s not easy! Here are two videos to help you put a visual to the text: Part 1 https://www.facebook.com/reel/961520678447078 Part 2  https://www.facebook.com/reel/660483442807290 Don’t hesitate to contact us for some help. Happy training!  Riannon  Owner/Trainer  Pour l’Amour des Chiens/For the Love of Dogs 

What are start button behaviours and how can they help your dog give choice and reduce fear based aggression during veterinary exams and grooming procedures. Mia has a great chin rest A start button is a term coined by Eva Bertilsson and Emelie Johnson Vegh (and adopted by Karen Pryor), two trainers from Sweden who at the time through their company Carpe Momentum, were developing precise ways of training agility. Though the idea has definitely been part of animal training for a long time (setting up your learner so they know what to expect is just good training), refining the concept and putting emphasis on how to use it has had amazing implications in both sports and behaviour training. As trainers, we often want to use what your dog wants most in order to get the behaviour we are looking for. If your dog has trouble outside with things that move, human or animal, we often want to use something of high value for them but also something they need, like food. That is because food is a primary reinforcer. “Primary reinforcers are reinforcers that have innate reinforcing qualities. These kinds of reinforcers are not learned. Water, food, sleep, shelter, sex, and touch […].”(Kate Votaw). Another primary reinforcer we don’t often think about is control. Not only as living beings do we like feeling in control, it can be essential if we are afraid of something – like the need to get away from something that could be endangering our lives.  Our dogs do not innately understand that constraint is ok. We can’t tell them that trimming their nails will be more comfortable for them and help them walk or that the vaccine at the vet will prevent illness. Some dogs like constraint a lot less than others (hello my spitz owners) and that’s where start buttons can come in and help you. A start button is a behaviour you teach your dog, so that they know what comes next. It predicts the next action. An easy example is your front door. If every time you touch your door knob and you ask your dog to sit, they know once they sit, that front door opens. With time you can simply place your hand on the doorknob and wait for them to sit, and when they do, you reinforce that behaviour by opening the door. Now what if your dog was scared to go outside? What if when you touch the doorknob, they knew if they didn’t, they wouldn’t have to go? Now your dog has control over the next action. For things like vaccines, veterinary handling or basic grooming often dogs can have a lot of trouble. At their least, they are uncomfortable but at their worst, they can be terrifying for your dog (which also means dangerous for you!). To use a chin rest to add the concept of control (or choice), you first teach your dog to rest their chin in your hand (while sitting usually is easiest to start) with duration. Once your dog is comfortable with this, you start to very gently and slowly touch the part of your dog they are more sensitive to. This is where the desensitization comes in. As you slowly start to manipulate your dog the way a vet would, or play with their toes for nail trimming, you stop if your dog moves their head out of the chin rest position. You then reward when your dog puts their head back into position. This way if your dog is uncomfortable, they can communicate this by simply removing their head. Your dog learns that putting their head back into position, means the process continues. In using this, little by little you can have your dog accept veterinary manipulation or routine blood draws (with the help and patience of a great fear free vet team).  Here are the steps: Basically now you need to increase the time your dog can give you the behaviour so that either you or a second person can now come and slowly start to perform the things on your dog they dislike. You will need to transfer this behaviour to a cushion or towel if you live alone and will be doing most of the training yourself (start to shift your hand onto the towel and slowly fade your hand so you are left with only the towel to ask their dog to place their chin on).  If it’s not going well, remember to go back to your last success and work up from there. Remember your dog has a warming up period, so never start your training exactly where you left off. When you change something in the environment, also go back a step to make it easier for your dog to understand. Remember the best training tip is always set your dog up for success. We love to teach start button behaviour at For the Love of Dogs so contact us for help as needed. Happy Training, Riannon Horan Owner/Trainer For the Love of Dogs/Pour l’Amour des Chiens Primary And Secondary Reinforcers, Kate Votaw, https://socialsci.libretexts.org/Bookshelves/Psychology/Introductory_Psychology/General_Psychology_for_Honors_Students_(Votaw)/18%3A_Operant_Conditioning/18.04%3A_Primary_And_Secondary_Reinforcers

Spring has sprung!  Time to think about the contents of your dog’s poop (delicious!) and to check your dog’s body for ticks, fleas and other parasites. Make sure to make it a habit to give your dog’s body a once over after any hiking excursion or time around grass (yes even just grass).  Why is that so important? Because ticks transmit lyme disease in as little as 24 to 48hrs after attaching to your dog and as you will read below are found in Montreal and the surrounding areas!. Read more about the various host-symbiont relationships your dog can have below in our interview with Victoria Wagner, DVM, MSc Parasitology (that means this is her specialty!) “Our pets can play host to a variety of different creepy crawlies. While some are harmless (albeit a little gross!), others can lead to serious illness – and some can even be passed on to humans! Thankfully, with guidance from your veterinarian and a few simple steps, you can significantly reduce your pets’ risk of catching these bugs – and bringing them home to the family!” [emphasis added] Q: What parasites are most common? What are the diseases I should be worried about? A: There are a number of different parasites to which your dog can be exposed. Some are internal and infect the intestines; these include roundworms, tapeworms, and hookworms, while others, such as heartworm, target the heart and lungs. Other parasites are external, like fleas & ticks. Puppies are very susceptible to getting sick from parasitic infections. Most puppies are born with intestinal parasites called roundworms, which can stunt their growth or cause them to fall ill; for this reason, it’s important that puppies are dewormed regularly as of a young age. Your veterinarian will prescribe a medication for deworming, and likely also recommend analyzing a stool sample from your pet. Many different internal parasites that live in the gut (including roundworms and tapeworms) can be picked up by dogs of all ages through licking or ingesting parasite eggs found in feces, or by hunting & eating small prey (mice, rats, etc.). Others, like hookworms, can penetrate directly through the skin – usually the paws – to get into the body! These worms may cause gastrointestinal upset, among other symptoms. Heartworm, meanwhile, is transmitted by mosquito bites. This parasite can cause coughing, exercise intolerance, and weight loss, but most often, it goes unnoticed – until suddenly your pet gets very sick! Finally, there are fleas and ticks. Fleas are not only a hassle to get rid of, but they can also transmit tapeworms to your pets. Ticks, meanwhile, are known to pass on a number of different diseases, including Lyme. And don’t be fooled; ticks are now in our very own backyards!” [emphasis added].  Q: Should I be worried about ticks even though my dog doesn’t go in the woods?A: “Absolutely! Unfortunately, ticks – including the type that can carry Lyme disease – are now present even in the city of Montreal. The INSPQ (Institut national de santé publique du Québec) published an interactive map showing the risk of Lyme disease in different parts of Quebec, which you can access here:  Furthermore, ticks can be present nearly year-round – but especially from early spring through late fall – so we need to be vigilant even in cool weather.” [emphasis added] Q: How do I protect my dog?A: “The first step towards protecting your dog is talking to your veterinarian. Your vet will likely ask about your pet’s lifestyle, travel, and medical history. Medications prescribed by your veterinarian can protect against fleas & ticks, internal parasites (including heartworm), or both. Your dog should also be routinely checked for heartworm and intestinal parasites; this requires regular blood tests and stool samples. Your vet may also recommend certain vaccines (i.e. against Lyme disease) to offer extra protection for your dog. Other ways to avoid parasitic infections include: When you frequent areas where ticks are especially present, always check your pet (and yourself!) for ticks when returning home – see this guide:  If you find a tick, remove it quickly and completely. Don’t hesitate to reach out to your vet for more instructions if you find a tick on your dog.” Taken from CDC.gov Q: At what time do I start giving my preventatives for ticks and fleas?A: “As soon as the weather is above 0°C. Furthermore, slowly but surely, we’re moving towards needing year-round parasite prevention, much as they already use in warmer climates.” [emphasis added] Q: What else do I need to know? A: “Some parasites that infect our dogs can also be contagious to humans (or “zoonotic”)! For example, the tapeworm Echinococcus is zoonotic, present in Quebec, and can even be life-threatening! Making sure your dog receives adequate parasite prevention also helps keep you and your family safe and healthy. Other steps to take to protect yourself against zoonotic parasites include proper hand-washing, not walking barefoot in outdoor areas where dogs may defecate (ex. the beach), washing raw fruits & vegetables well before eating them, and, if anyone in your home is immunosuppressed, speaking to your doctor and veterinarian about how to minimize risks in your household.  Overall, there’s lots to know about parasites and your dog. That said, with a bit of care and some guidance from your veterinarian, your pet can safely enjoy being outdoors!” Tick 24-48hrs: https://www.waxhaw.providencevets.com/site/blog/2020/10/30/lyme-disease-dogs-symptoms-treatment-recover

Make brushing your dog’s teeth part of your daily routine Here’s why: Keeping your dog’s teeth clean is essential for their overall health and wellbeing. Poor dental hygiene can lead to a variety of canine diseases, such as periodontal disease, gingivitis, and tooth decay. These can affect your dog’s quality of life and ability to chew as early as 3 years old! According to Dr. K.J. Goldenberg, MV: “Periodontal disease is the result of bacteria from the mouth getting below the gums and into the bones and supporting structures of the teeth: those bacteria cause pain and inflammation. On the surface you may see tartar: that hard cement of bacteria on the teeth, and gingivitis: swollen and bleeding teeth. Below the surface bone can dissolve away and abscesses can form. Eventually teeth get loose and can fall out. All pets are at risk of periodontal disease. Brushing teeth daily and using other dental hygiene products like a dental food, treats, and water additives will help slow the progress, but most cats and dogs will start showing signs of periodontal disease as of the age of 3.” Brushing your dog’s teeth regularly is one of the best ways to prevent these dental diseases from occurring. Not only does it help keep their breath smelling fresh, but it also helps to prevent plaque buildup which can cause more serious issues if left untreated. Think of how much pain you can be in if you have problems with your teeth and you need to go to the dentist! Your dog could be experiencing this same level of sensitivity if issues go left untreated. One of the best way’s to prevent dental disease is daily brushing. Regular brushing can also help reduce the risk of infection and other oral health problems in dogs. By ensuring that your pup has healthy teeth and gums, you are helping them to live a longer and happier life. Steps for how to brush your dog’s teeth: What are signs of distress and how do I know to stop because it’s too much for my dog? Sometimes dog’s can get accustomed to something they dislike and other times you are sensitizing them to a process, making it harder and harder to complete your training goal. If you see that each day you go back with the toothbrush, your dog is staying with you and letting you go in for a few seconds, then please build on this success.  However if your dog is: growling, lifting their lips as you approach, running and hiding, thrashing their body as you try to hold them, biting your hands or snapping in the air then you need to stop immediately and consult a professional. Please never corner your dog to brush their teeth if they are displaying these symptoms.  Remember your dog may also nibble on your hands to say, “hey there, that’s enough of that!”. That’s ok, what that means is that you needed to stop a few seconds earlier. It’s important to try and distinguish between, this is simply annoying to my dog vs my dog is actually panicking. If you are having trouble understanding that difference, please contact us!  If you are unable to brush your dog’s teeth, you will need to consider frequent check-ups which may involve more invasive dental procedures. Dr. Goldenerg explains that “a dental cleaning needs to be done under general anesthesia. Firstly, the noise, vibration, and spreading water from the cleaning machine is scary for pets. If they move during a cleaning, their tooth enamel and gums can be damaged. And of course, the job is more complete when they are not moving and the veterinary staff can fully work and examine their mouth. The price for a dental cleaning will also vary based on experience, the quality or type of equipment being used, and if things like dental X-rays are included. And of course if a pet already has periodontal disease requirement advanced treatment like tooth extractions, the surgery time and equipment needed will have a cost. A very basic cleaning may be 300-500$, an advanced cleaning can be up to 1000$, and dental work is often over 1000$ and can even be more than 2000$.” states Dr. Goldenberg. A good reason to be on top of things! Though your vet tries their best to provide an estimate for their services, Dr. Goldenberg further states that “we often don’t know the full extent of periodontal disease until a pet is under anesthesia for a full exam and X-rays, so you could get a big range and generally want to discuss in advance what work and budget you’re comfortable with. Believe me, no vet wants to remove healthy teeth, so if they’re recommending  it’s because there is serious pain and infection there.” If you would like to know more about your pets dental health, your veterinarian can guide you or you can make an appointment with Dr. Goldenberg at royalvet.com With Dr. K.J. Goldenberg, MV from clinic Royal Vet Photo Credit: Anna Shvets