Would you like your vet visit to be pleasant and easy? Is your dog uncomfortable or does he have white coat syndrome? (yes this term is also used for dogs!)
If so, this article is for you! Below we discuss what to practice to have your dog enjoy the clinic, be able to be calm both waiting for their appointment and during as well as getting them ready for possibly uncomfortable veterinary contentions.
Before your appointment: Make frequent visits to the vet just to get treats. Have you ever tried to walk by your local pet store without your dog trying to drag you inside? Food is a great way to make positive connections for your dog. It turns the vet into a happy place and we promise the receptionists and techs love to see you come in!
If your dog has had other experiences at the vet that have been negative, your vet staff may ask you to muzzle your dog. If this is the case, it’s important to teach this behaviour ahead of time. This helps relieve possible added stress to your dog (and keeps everyone at the clinic safe). Depending on your dog’s level of stress, be aware that there is medication which can help your dog to be calm. Please speak with your clinic prior to your exam if you think your dog could benefit from this.
A note on muzzles: Muzzles get bad press. We think only “aggressive” dogs wear them, but that’s not the case. Dogs who wear muzzles in public most often do so because they’re scared. People use the muzzle as a safety measure alongside other training and tools (like a leash!). The muzzle is there when training and other tools fail. Often, my customers whose dogs wear muzzles in public spaces think that if people were more respectful, their dog wouldn’t need to wear a muzzle, and they’re right. The muzzle is there in case someone reaches down and strokes the dog without asking while the owner’s head is turned (please never do this), or in case an off-leash dog enters directly into their dog’s space. In fact, dogs wear muzzles to protect people and other dogs, but mainly to protect themselves from people who place them in inappropriate situations.
There are a LOT of other reasons why dogs wear muzzles: they eat poop (remember, dogs are coprophagous), they pick up anything outside and swallow it, they’re afraid of other dogs, in order to ride the Montreal metro, they’re afraid of the vet, they’re afraid of the groomer etc.
The truth is that in general, animals and restraints don’t mix. We need to teach them (slowly) that the procedures that need to be carried out and that may require muzzling won’t kill them. I can tell you that I’ve seen very few dogs who haven’t reacted negatively initially to having a muzzle put on their face. Most of my customers come to me when their dog is already hiding behind the sofa at the sight of the muzzle. Consider training this before your dog has a negative association.
Here’s how: https://pourlamourdeschiens.com/en/2023/10/17/muzzle-training-why-and-how/ (written steps)
Video Part 1 https://www.facebook.com/reel/253557107266066
Video Part 2 https://www.facebook.com/reel/226194940214675
For before and during your appointment: Many dogs have to learn to be calm or self regulate in different contexts. We teach this by doing what is called “paying for calm”. This is also very useful for those evenings (certainly those of your with adolescent dogs) we want to get our dog used to being calm on the floor while we watch TV:
- Put your dog on a leash.
- Start to give them treats.
- Start by giving several in a row and wait to see what they do.
- It is important in this exercise to meet the dog where they are in their level of energy. You may want your dog to self-regulate into being able to lie down, but maybe at the moment they are barking and jumping. This means you need to start successively giving them treats until they are in a head space where they are able to start even being able to sit down.
- If they sit, reward this.
- Put a few seconds between rewards and then increase the time.
- If your dog lies down, reward that.
- Continue to reward until you see the dog is calm.
This takes practice, patience and observation. Do not start out your first session thinking you will get 30 minutes training out of your dog. Start with 3 seconds, then 5, 10, 15 etc. then a minute and half, then two, then three and continue from there. Gradually increase the time you put between rewards as well as the time of the training session.
Please remember, food is used to tell the dog: “yes you have done something good, thank you” but is it also used to change an emotion. Food helps a dog calm down and focus on you when maybe they would ordinarily be focused on something else.
Try using a more boring treat for this exercise when you are in an environment with a low level of distraction (your living room when it is quiet). The idea is not to use something that will increase the dog’s level of excitement. However, if you start to increase distraction and your distance from your dog, (like if you take the exercise outside or have guests over) maybe you will need to use something more interesting.
Just Before your appointment
Burn their energy by tiring them physically and mentally. Canine enrichment (mental stimulation) is a term used to describe activities that help stimulate and enrich the mental life of your dog. It can involve providing interactive meals, good things to chew or of course training! Don’t forget to practice some basic obedience, new or old tricks, use your dog’s nose to play some scent games or practice any sport you love to do together. Any and all of these activities will make it easier for your dog to be calm during the visit.
Also please don’t forget, even though your vet has treats at their office, you know your best: BRING DELICIOUS TREATS WITH YOU! I personally bring roasted chicken, cheese (low fat!), dried liver and sometimes steak. Why? Because my dog is nervous and having delicious food will help keep them interested in me so my vet can quickly and safely give my dog his injections. Be proactive and come prepared so your dog can have a less stressful (and maybe fun!) experience.
Practicing vet contentions:
Dogs speak but only to those who listen. Learning canine body language can help prevent a serious incident at the vet. Your dog tells you when they don’t appreciate something. Learn to know what your dog is trying to tell you in order to make your training a success!
Desensitization is a behavioral modification process that exposes dogs to their fears in a slow, low-stress way that increases in difficulty over time. This helps teach the dog that they are not in danger and that no one is going to hurt them! This also has the amazing benefit of making veterinary practice much safer for all those involved as your dog already knows what to expect! So basically, there is no downside to this process. To desensitize a dog, you need to provide a positive stimulus (usually treats) while they’re exposed to the possibly frightening or uncomfortable trigger to help ensure the association is a positive one.
Your dog will likely have to be held by you or the veterinary staff. This is called contention. Here are a few positions that you can train for in advance by using desensitization and positive reinforcement!
Pro tip: Don’t forget to generalize your training! Make sure after you can do all these things to your dog that your family and friends can too! Try it in different places like at your local pet store or a friend’s house. Just because your dog does something one time somewhere, does not mean they will be comfortable in another context.
Picking up your dog: it is important to pick up your dog as shown. This is the most comfortable way for them to be picked up and it prevents their legs from flailing around (which is not so fun for your dog or your back). How do you train this? Everything should be practiced by progressively introducing the new behaviour and rewarded afterwards. For example, start by holding the dog in the stand position, wait a few seconds, let go and treat. Continue a few times so that your dog gets used to being held in such a way. Pick up your dog and put him down. Practice this a few times. Finally, your dog is ready to be put on a table (as will have to be done at the vet). Continue to practice this until your dog is comfortable being on a table, i.e. he doesn’t panic, fight back or show any signs of discomfort (learn your dog’s body language).w
Pro tip: You can pick your dog up like this and put them on picnic tables outside and/or use a towel on your furniture to help their stability.
General Exam: Your dog may be held as shown below. The contention described looks like a big hug! (side note: most dogs don’t like hugs!). Usually the dog doesn’t fight this hold as it is comfortable to be held in such a way, however, if the dog does resist, a stronger hold may be used depending on what your vet needs. This means you need to practice the position with more pressure and duration. Be sure to increase pressure and time slowly while keeping your rate of reinforcement high.
Blood Draws: To give you a guideline, your dog will most likely have to be held in the positions featured below for a minimum of 30 seconds to one minute or more. If your dog is reluctant to be held, remember: baby steps. In training it’s easier on you and your dog to work up to this duration. In other words, don’t start by holding your dog with his head held high for the whole 30 seconds. Begin by simply having your dog held in these positions. Repeat many times, in different rooms in the house. Until your dog no longer resists (it’s really important to understand that in the elevated neck position, you are careful to avoid the front of the neck where your dog’s trachea is, if you’re touching the chin bone, you’re good!) . Once the hold is no longer uncomfortable, start adding the duration, one second, 5 seconds, 10 seconds, 12 seconds etc until you reach the ultimate goal!
Now add distractions: There are many smells, other animals, people busy working etc. at the vet. Try and create distractions at home that will challenge your dog but also, set your dog up for success. Work up to those distractions. It is not recommended to start by leaving his favourite treat on the ground and expect him to resist this temptation, instead, use a not so highly valued treat. Couple distractions with your previously practiced duration and you’re good to make your trip to the vet!
It’s important to understand that these behaviours take time to learn, it may even take a few weeks. This is all new to Fluffy! Plan to practice a few times a day during your regular training sessions.
Cystocentesis: Have you taught your dog to play dead? If so, you’re ahead of the game as that is the perfect position to use when performing this procedure. To get your dog on his side, start in the down position. Lure him by using his favourite treat onto his side: treat on the nose and towards the back paw, if he does not go on his side right way you are going too quickly with the lure, take your treat and reward in increments, as many as necessary as you make your way to the back paw. Your dog should flop on his side. Take the back paw and hold it up as is shown in the photo below. Add your duration and distractions as described in the blood draw section.
Nail Trim: Your dog will need a nail trim minimally every 3 weeks for the rest of their lives. That’s a lot of nails! Please read our blog on nail trimming at: Trimming Your Dog’s Nails | Pour l’amour des chiens, éducation canine. (pourlamourdeschiens.com) to get more information in regards to the importance of keeping your dog’s nails short.
There are 2 ways of putting your dog in position for the nail trim, on his side or standing with the paw bent towards the torso (for the front paws) or stomach (for back paws). To get your dog on their side, watch our nail trim videos. For the standing position you can hold your dog in position while they eat out of your hand and have someone hold their paws. Remember to slowly increase the time and pressure the person holds their paws for. You can also teach a great stand-stay and add during and distraction (something we teach in private consultation and our group classes).
The scale: This is scary stuff! Likely the scale is stainless steel in order to facilitate cleaning. Go and see your vet once a month to be weighed and get some cookies! Maybe, just maybe, your dog will be excited to go to the vet as there is not always poking and prodding involved. The way to a dog’s motivation is through his stomach as food = changing your dog’s emotional state from frightened, anxious or aggressive to calm and well behaved. Don’t forget your local pet store usually has a scale! So go in (you know you’re going anyway) and weigh your dog. Bring delicious treats or even a towel to help him out (fyi – cutting their nails helps them stand more firmly on the scale and be less afraid!).
Darlene giving her best Belgian smile while on the scale.
If you would like more information in regards to husbandry techniques or any behaviour modification feel free to reach out to pourlamourdeschien.com. It will be our pleasure to help you and your dog to prepare in order to make everyone’s life better! We also help people whose dogs are more afraid, require muzzles or who have a bite history.
Merci à nos stars : Brandy, Mia, Didie et Darlene !